'Dave, I can't do that' writes: Hi, I must be losing my Google search skills but I cannot find panel cut out details for a female DB-25 plug. By Female I mean the outer profile of the shell and not the pins versus sockets. The panel cutout has to be big enough to clear that outer shell and let the plug seat fully with the Male part. I once saw a catalog listing for a Greenlee punch for such.
The price would make you faint, however. A host is a host from coast to & no one will talk to a host that's close.v.(301) 56-LINUX Unless the host (that isn't close).pob 1433 is busy, hung or dead. Jon Danniken 25/9/2008, 11:42 น. 'Dave, I can't do that' wrote: HiI must be losing my Google search skills but I cannot find panel cut out details for a female DB-25 plug. By Female I mean the outer profile of the shell and not the pins versus sockets. Then you mean the male side (gender referring to the actual electrical interface connections, ie, the actual pins and sockets). On a DB-25, the outer shell of the male end will surround the outer shell of the female when the two are connected.
Jon Ned Simmons 25/9/2008, 11:53 น. On Thu, 25 Sep 2008 10:49:14 -0700 (PDT), 'Dave, I can't do that' wrote: HiI must be losing my Google search skills but I cannot find panel cut out details for a female DB-25 plug. I just emailed you a couple autocad dwgs that I use for mounting connectors in NEMA boxes. They're not dimensioned, but they may be helpful. I generally print them and transfer the center lines to the panel with a punch.
Let me know if you don't receive or can't open them. Ned Simmons [email protected] 25/9/2008, 12:45 น. There's no real standard for a cutout- some are reversible and some are not, and some have looser tolerance than others. There's a cutout (on a panel) drawing here, but you have to register and log in: (reversible) Here's another (non-reversible) And a datasheet for a part with yet another design: And a cutout-only drawing: Lots and lots more info if you search electronics distributors for the part datasheets (eg. Best regards, Spehro Pefhany - 'it's the network.'
'The Journey is the reward' Info for manufacturers: Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: Michael A. Terrell 25/9/2008, 18:31 น. Can't you just measure the parallel port on your PC, or an old computer card?
I used to use a spare plate from a bad board to scribe the outline, and a nibblet to make custom cutouts. Shows a lot of connector cutouts., Goggle Groups, and Web TV users must request to be white listed, or I will not see your messages. If you have broadband, your ISP may have a NNTP news server included in your account: There are two kinds of people on this earth: The crazy, and the insane. The first sign of insanity is denying that you're crazy. [email protected] 25/9/2008, 19:59 น.
On Sep 26, 3:49 am, 'Dave, I can't do that' wrote: Correct me if I am being really stupid, but why cant you measure it? - after all, this is what vernier calipers are made for. By all means if you have the data in front of you thats the easy way, but basic metalworking skills. Andrew VK3BFA. PS - ok, granted, I have learnt in a proper trade certificate course all the really basic metalworking stuff that most hobbyists do not bother with cause its 'too basic' - a lot to be said for starting the book on page 1 line 1. Tim Wescott 25/9/2008, 20:43 น.
Thanks to all who responded. I had been to Mouser and checked some Data sheets but they only showed the body dimensions and not the cutouts. Thanks for the links I will follow all of them up. There has to be a standard for these. I cannot believe there are NEMA patterns for just about any type of motor and nothing for DB- connectors. Switch manufacturers all include panel cutouts. I sincerely doubt I am the first person to need cutout dimensions.
As to the two who suggested measuring, take a look at a DB-25 and notice the 10deg angle at the end. Care to hazard how to make an accurate drawing of that? I want accurate and not just near enough. Near enough may be good enough for you two, but not this little cookie.
Dave Dave, I can't do that 26/9/2008, 10:10 น. On Sep 27, 3:08 am, 'Dave, I can't do that' wrote: Erh - whats the problem? - basic layout principles.I did a unit in this at school for precisely this sort of thing. You can measure the length and breadth, use a protractor to get the angles at each end, then use a radius gauge to get the curves. And how many are you making? - if you are this fussy about a panel cutout, its going to take you a LONG time.and thats assuming you can machine to the tolerances you seem to require.
Andrew VK3BFA. Jim Wilkins 27/9/2008, 7:51 น. On Sep 26, 1:08 pm, 'Dave, I can't do that' wrote:. As to the two who suggested measuring, take a look at a DB-25 and notice the 10deg angle at the end. Care to hazard how to make an accurate drawing of that? I want accurate and not just near enough.
D-Sub Connector Dimensions, Dsub Connector Mechanical drawing by Shell size. Note that most people just use the term 'DB'; DB9, DB15, DB25.
Near enough may be good enough for you two, but not this little cookie. Dave I made a CAD drawing of one by measuring the radius of the corner and length of the long side and placing two circles at that distance. I moved the angled side guidelines to touch those circles, then placed two more corner circles tangent to the sides and a bottom guideline. Then I added clearance all around for the fillet between the body and the D part.
Measure a sample from the manufacturer you plan to use because they aren't all identical to 0.001' and you have little room to spare between the angle and the mounting hole. The commercial hand punches, which are difficult to use, cut oversize. I nearly destroyed one punching holes in 0.093' 6061 on a robot chassis. The flat and the guide pins aren't enough to hold the punch straight. One of the many standard DB patterns is a square-ended hole matching the wire side, with a notch for the mounting screws. These allow you to put the connector outside the panel where the mounting standoffs extent the right distance. When the connector is inside they prevent the plug from fully mating.
Be sure you can wiggle the wired connector through the hole and don't have to assemble it in place. Jim Wilkins Dave, I can't do that 27/9/2008, 9:55 น. On Sep 27, 12:56 pm, 'Dave, I can't do that' wrote: Ugh. If possible I saw out out the side of the box and machine the connector holes on a flat cover plate.
A box like that can be set up fairly securely on a mill by cutting a piece of plywood thicker than the cover lip to fit inside, and clamping box and plywood to a shelf made of large angle plates. Extra supports under the plates and the back end of the box don't hurt. I mark the connector cutouts, drill near their centers and pull the sheet metal tight against the plywood with wood screws.
After milling I reattach the screws with fender washers. Otherwise the cutter tends to lift the sheet metal. Matt 28/9/2008, 9:49 น. On Sep 25, 10:49 am, 'Dave, I can't do that' wrote: Just a couple of notes on this topic: There is a lot of info out there on the panel cutout dimensions for the DB-(x) family of connectors, and my observation is that there is significant variation between one source and another on the dimensions, sometimes as much as.015' or.020'. This stuff can almost always be found on websites of electronic parts distributors or sheet metal tooling vendors. You kind of have to just pick one and go with it (or, as Andrew noted dryly, just lay it out/design it yourself, how hard can it be?) The issue about the panel thickness is very real, in my personal experience. My company suffered through some long-running issues with equipment reliability due to the on-again/off-again nature of connection quality from these connectors being used with panels of.
09' thickness, without the benefit of counterboring for the standard coupling nuts, or relieving the panel thickness on the inside to get the connector closer to the outside surface. I would not have the effective thickness between the coupling nut and the connector mounting flange any thicker than.045'. This will allow sufficient engagement of pins into sockets for reliability. It works 'OK' with.062, but thicker is big trouble. Dave, I can't do that 28/9/2008, 12:19 น. On Sep 27, 6:21 pm, Jim Wilkins wrote: Hi Jim, Thanks for the suggestions.
I will try with a 1/8' carbide and see how it goes. I have the box clamped to an angle plate. Your suggestion for using the screw holes to hold it to a piece of plywood is a great idea. If the bare cutter does cause serious lifting, I will do that. I have other cut outs to make on the same side so maybe I will just go straight to the plywood inside. If there were a bunch of them I would get a reverse helix end-mil that pushes the metal down.
Fingers crossed here. I don't have the luxury of cutting a big hole and using a separate panel, but that too is a good idea. I'll mention it.
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